Bones: a noodle bar

Bones
701 Grant

Tucked in a tiny corner between Luca d'Italia and Lancer's Lounge at 7th and Grant and right across the street from Benny's sits Bones. This Asian-fusion noodle bar is the brain child of Frank Bonanno and his partner on this venture, Chris Gregory. And you can tell, because it has the same feel that all of Bonanno's restaurants have: casual elegance and the aroma of killer food.

As opposed to Luca next door, Bones offers a relatively affordable dining experience. The small menu has approximately nine appetizers and two salads as starters and five varieties of noodle bowls. Dessert offerings all spring from the soft serve ice cream maker behind the bar. And just to add to the charm of the place, if you order one of their inventive cocktails or some Sake or beer, you will spot your waiter edging his way up the backstairs to the tiny bar located at the top. The place is just too small to wedge a bar into the main floor.

The place might have 25 seats if you don't count the tables on the outside patios flanking either side. But even though the place is small it doesn't feel crowded. That is probably due to the ample chairs and the equally ample table spacing. I can think of some other restaurants around town that might try to crowd forty bodies into this same space. And the art work by Quang Ho helps to turn this potentially pedestrian location into a sophisticated foody spot.

But we should talk about the food. Call ahead for reservations to be safe and ask to sit at the bar so you can check out the preparations. And since Bonanno scurries between Mizuna, Luca, and Bones, you might be treated to a view of him whipping up steamed buns or roasted bone marrow appetizers.

I can only think of one other place in Denver serving bone marrow, but the marrow at Bones is creamier and easier to get at than the buffalo marrow at The Fort. Ask your server to suggest a Sake to complement your order and settle back and start spreading the marrow over the toast points. I can't think of a more luxurious way to start a meal.

Actually that is not true. An order of the steamed buns--particularly the ones with pork belly--is about as decadent as it gets. If you are with a companion, whatever you do play it safe and get two orders. Don't share the buns. They come three to an order and the fight over the last bun could do serious damage to any relationship.

There are other apps and they are all delicious. The beef short-rib eggrolls are perfect with crispy skins and juicy melt-in-your mouth chunks of beef inside. Don't forget the potato three-ways for a lesson in spud management. Did I mention the salads, crisp and beautiful and fresh.

Please don't stop there. The Udon noodle bowl with slow cooked pork shoulder topped with with a poached egg is unlike anything I've had before. The dish gives testament to Bonanno's mastery of the pig that has been on display next door at Luca for years. They even have nifty little plastic containers that will easily allow you to bring home the inevitable left overs. There is a poached lobster ramen, an egg noodle bowl with chicken quarters, but my favorite is the Soba noodle bowl. It is served cold like a salad with rare Ahi tuna and a variety of vegetables of the season all set off with a grapefruit ponzu. Wonderful! Wonderful! Wonderful!

A soft serve twist cone is a nice way to end if you feel the need for something sweet. The sweetest thing of all is just the place itself, the way all the servers act so happy and proud, the bustle behind the bar, Chris Gregory touching tables like the best front man in Denver that he is. Go to Bones for lunch (an abbreviated menu) or dinner, but go by all means.